Burda Style Cap Sleeve Godet Dress ★★

Burda Style Cap Sleeve Godet Dress 09/2014 #122

I did not end up having good luck with this dress. It is problematic to fit, especially if you’re not classic model sized. The lining doesn’t really work well and ends up riding up. And the front skirt curve, while it looks great on the model, ends up looking like a weird apron flap or something in real life. The front skirt wants to be flowy, because of the drape of that weird front curve, and the back skirt is almost tightly fitted.

Without wide hips, this dress probably works better. But with them, its almost impossible to alter this pattern to fit flatteringly.

I used this pattern for this dress: Science Girl Drinks Beer… yes, again.

Colette Zinnia Skirt ★★★★★

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This pattern has definitely become one of my favorites. Its a basic easy pleated skirt, which takes on a completely diverse character depending on what fabric you use. With a silk crepe, its slinky and flowy, with a thicker cotton sateen its got more body and floats along with you.

The fit is easy, as the only bit that really matters is the waist band. The pleats are easy to place, and the zipper and button combo in the back is secure, and even fun if you choose a cute button.

I’ve never made the gathered version of this, with buttons and top patch pockets, but I feel like it’d work equally well, and I’m sure I’ll get around to it eventually. I already have three zinnia skirts, and I doubt I’m going to stop there.

You can see this pattern in action here: Colette Zinnia in Yellow Silk

Colette Peony Dress ★★★

17lineartSo, I confess. I changed this pattern so much, its hardly the Peony dress anymore. If the Colette Moneta had existed at the time, I probably would have chosen to make that, as thats practically what I ended up with anyways.

So, the first heretical thing I did here was to make this dress out of a stretch knit. I removed the back zipper and made it a pull-over-the-head dress. Then I turned the skirt into a 3/4 circle skirt instead of the a-line skirt the pattern pieces show. I chose a sleeve length that is basically halfway between the short cap sleeve and the three quarter sleeve options.

Given that, I still had the same old bodice dart problems as I do with all colette patterns. The darts require re-sizing and repositioning for me every time. I also should have made this dress without the neck facing. I don’t know if its because I chose a knit fabric, or what, but the facing refuses to lie down and always ends up poking up like an errant tag in the back. Even after I’ve tacked it down in multiple places.

But if you ignore all my complaints, I still love this dress. And its not the pattern’s fault I went all over the map with weird changes here.

Check out photos of that fateful project here: Painted Dress

Vogue Dress V8814 ★★

10lineartI absolutely love the way this pattern looks on the cover, but I fear that it is one of those instances where reality will never quite match up. This pattern is very difficult to fit properly. Now, I know I’m not a runway model size, with a perfect ratio from top to bottom, but so very few people are…

Both times I attempted this pattern, I ended up with weird fitting around the hips and a top that was loose not quite right. Making any sort of modification to the fit of the pieces is difficult precisely because of the interesting construction that drew me to it in the first place. The pattern pieces are actually a series of skewed trapezoids that fit together to create a really appealing shape, especially if you choose a direction print and use it well. But that just means that fitting it accurately is well beyond my skill.

Maybe someday I’ll come back to this pattern. You can read about my two experiences with this pattern, and see the results, here: Christmas Velvet &  Chevron Dress.

McCall’s Dress M6027 ★★★

14lineartI was a bit rushed when I used this pattern, so I don’t really know if the problems I had with the fit around the shoulders were really me, or it. But it honestly think the pattern is just fit weirdly. Other than that, its a very simple pattern, just a series of curved strips that build a dress. And I got many compliments on the finished dress, so it worked out well.

To see that dress, check it out here:Science Girl Goes To Space

Butterick Apron Dress B4790 ★★★

15lineartI so wish I could recommend this pattern. Its fun and unique and weird, and should be very comfortable and very easy! But… Clearly the transition from “retro” sizing to modern sizing lost something along the way. I’m not the only person who’s had trouble fitting this pattern. The darts are oddly placed, and weirdly sized.

There are people that have done work to make this pattern actually fit like it should, but for the most part I’m just too lazy and disappointed to try again. If you want to try your hand at it though, I’d recommend this tutorial.

I used this pattern in this project: Librarian Apron Dress

Butterick Jacket B4954 ★★★★

11lineartI was very pleased with this pattern. I altered it somewhat heavily, and went for a lapeled look instead of the high collar. And added turn backs to the slit/pleat at the back of the coat as well as the front, as I was going for a completely different look. But this pattern managed alterations well, and was easy to construct in the basics.

It is definitely a time intensive pattern, as with the lining et al there are a lot of pieces to match together. But the result was well worth it for me.

I used this pattern for this project, it was my Lion Tamer’s tailed coat: Spoonflower Halloween – Phantom Circus

Butterick Corset B5662 ★★★

12lineartA decent basic corset pattern, if entirely unhistoric. There’s nothing creative about this corset pattern, and the fit isn’t perfect, but it works well in a pinch. It definitely wont serve as an actual silhouette altering or waist narrowing corset, but as an over the top costume piece or prom dress prop it works well enough.

For my project I removed the clasps/lacing from the front, and only had mine lace in the back, as I wanted more the idea of a boned vest bodice instead of a corset.

I used this corset pattern in an epic halloween project: Spoonflower Halloween – Phantom Circus

Vogue Shirt Dress V8577 ★★★★★

6lineartThis pattern is a fantastic shirt dress pattern. It has really nice details that make it stand out. The pockets look complex and difficult, but the directions make it fairly easy. I’ve always intended to do a version with the sleeves and lapels, but haven’t yet bothered.

With a heavier linen, its a great fall and winter dress. Check out Purple Shirt Dress. Out of a lightweight crepe it makes an amazing summer dress, don’t believe me? See Summer Shirt Dress. Flexible and flattering and comfortable, I definitely recommend this pattern.